1. Why are there 3 power ratings for speakers and what do they mean? THE WHY:
Speakers are rated differently than power amplifiers. This is because the small wire inside the speaker making up the voice coil is only capable of clean non-clipped power levels. This is were the "under powering a speaker" myth has been so twisted in it's understanding. You can't under power a speaker and damage it, but you can under power a performance or show. If the system is not large enough for the performance and the amplifiers are clipping, it will damage the speaker even though the wattage of the speaker is rated higher than the amplifier. Also, sine wave bench test signals, used to measure the RMS power of an amplifier, are too constant and can heat a speaker voice coil up prematurely not representing a speakers "real world" rated output.
THE WHAT:
OK, now to the root of continuous, program and peak speaker ratings. A speaker is tested using pink noise limited to (or crossed over at) the lowest frequency the cabinet was designed to work. In many cases this is around 30-40Hz for mains speakers. The continuous rating is the RMS value of the pink noise. The peak rating is 6 DB higher than the continuous rating where most of the peaks generated in the pink noise reach. I say most, because there are some higher peaks. The program rating is an in between value of 3 DB over the continuous rating suggesting a nominal power with heavy music. If the speaker is need for rated power usage, the program rating is a good target to use to determining the needed amplifier power for the speaker. If you are going to use a speaker at its rated program power levels, be sure not to clip the amplifiers - at least not consistently. An occasional clip is hard to prevent, but continuous clipping is a mater of time before the speakers are damaged. In these cases the system needs to be either increased in size by adding more amplifiers and speakers, or limiters should to be used to hold the system to within it's rated capacity. Added: 1-29-2009    Revised: 1-29-2009    back to top
3. What is a Diaphragm? A diaphragm is the part of a High Frequency Driver that is replaced when it goes bad. It's the part that vibrate and makes the noise inside the driver. The rest of the driver is just a big magnet. Sometimes if you get really bad feedback and your "HIGHS" go out, usually it's the diaphragm that went bad. Click on link for correct replacements:Diaphragms.PDF
Click on "Parts" to buy one, Select category: "Speaker Hardware". Added: 10-14-2008    Revised: 10-29-2008    back to top
Note how the color is black and brown, when the voice coil gets really hot it starts to burn and it turns black. If you are over driving your speakers that is what happens to the speaker internally. Over time the coating that the voice coil has starts to fall off because it's burnt and the wire becomes exposed, that is when the speaker shorts and fails. Added: 10-15-2008    back to top
32. How can I tell if I have a bad Speaker? With an Ohm meter connect the two leads from the meter to the two terminals in the speaker, if it measure 0.00 ohms the speaker is bad. If it measure 4.0 to 8.0 ohms DC it's probably good. If the reading is Open or open load, the speaker is bad too. Look at the speaker and you will find a label indicating the impedance.
Note: In "AC Resistance" the reading would be more like 3.2 for 4 ohms and 6.2 for the 8 ohm speaker.
For a replacement Speaker click here:Carvin Speakers Added: 9-11-2008    Revised: 11-12-2008    back to top
33. Why is the cone in my speaker is not moving? If the cone in your speaker is not moving when you press on it, it's because something is wrong with the speaker. The speaker should have deflection when you press on it. When the coil of the speaker is burned it will melt and it will weld the cone that is why it doesn't move up or down. If you plug the speaker into an amp it can damage it. If you overdrive the speaker it will go bad. Added: 9-11-2008    Revised: 10-17-2008    back to top
34. What is the Cone of a speaker? The cone is the inside part of a speaker that moves forward and backwards as the speaker is producing sound. For a replacement speaker click here: Carvin Speakers Added: 9-11-2008    Revised: 10-22-2008    back to top
37. How should I box my amp to send it in for repair? The amp should be boxed up in its original packaging. If that is not possible, then box it up as best you can. Make sure to leave a protective cushion between the amp and the box. During shipping the amp will be exposed to rough handling. If improperly boxed, the unit will be damaged. Carvin is not responsible for shipping damage due to improper boxing. Remember to fill out your RMA form. Added: 10-21-2008    Revised: 11-10-2008    Generic FAQ    back to top
39. Does Carvin offer a trade in for the wireless that will not work after June, 2010 because of the frequency used? Carvin offers a 100 Dollar credit towards a replacement system, which are in the 638-698Mhz range(NEW), older is (700-800Mhz). You don't have to send in your old wireless. The credit applies to any owner not just the original owner. A serial number must be provided. Valid until Jan, 2013. Please call Carvin Sales at 800-854-2235 Added: 2-8-2010    Revised: 2-8-2010    Generic FAQ    back to top
40. What is the Thiele? The Thiele specifications are a set of parameters used to describe the audio characteristics of a speaker driver. Added: 8-26-2009    Generic FAQ    back to top
41. Can a Carvin Tech Modify my amps if I send them in? No. Carvin Technicians are not permitted to MOD (modify) any amplifier. It is against company policy. Carvin does not repair modified amplifiers. If a modification is found during a repair, then the component values will be returned to factory specs (if it is not rejected). Added: 9-11-2008    Revised: 11-10-2008    Generic FAQ    back to top
42. What is Moisture and Corrosion, and why is that bad? Moisture is the presence of water in trace amounts. It can cause rot in wood and corrosion in metals, both of which are the main materials in your amplifier and cabinet. When moisture goes inside the amp it can corrode the input and output jacks (causing intermittent crackling, popping, and volume loss), damage the cables inside the amp, and short traces on the circuit boards. If corrosion is present on any of the jacks, the best thing to do is to replace them. For light corrosion, applying contact cleaner to the jacks will help. Added: 9-11-2008    Revised: 11-10-2008    Generic FAQ    back to top
43. What do I do if I get Dust or Sand inside my gear? Dust and/or sand should never go inside the amp. If any debris goes inside try to clean it out as best you can. Dust and sand can block the fan and vents, causing the amp to overheat, and they can also short components inside. Any debris inside the chassis will also absorb moisture and cause corrosion to form on chassis and circuitry. Added: 9-11-2008    Revised: 11-10-2008    Generic FAQ    back to top
44. What do I do if my amp gets struck by Lightning? Lightning can cause extreme and intermittent failures to all electrical equipment. Most of these issues are very difficult to repair and usually return after time. In the case of a direct hit, the amp will likely not work well ever again. If there was a black out for a few seconds and the amp does not power back ON, check the fuse. For a replacement fuse click on "Fuse and Bias Values" in the FAQ Categories menu. Added: 9-11-2008    Revised: 11-10-2008    Generic FAQ    back to top
45. When I tap the top of my amp the signal goes in and out, what do I do? This is a characteristic of something inside the amp being loose. In most cases it is a loose connector, but it can also be dirty or corroded contacts, a bad ribbon cable, or broken solder joints. To check this, take the amp out of the enclosure and verify that all harnesses and connectors are installed correctly. Disconnect and reconnect the ribbon cables. Power on your amp and verify that it is working properly. If the problem persists, you may have to replace a connector and do further troubleshooting. A cable can work its way out from the vibration of a speaker. For a replacement cable click on "Parts". Added: 9-11-2008    Revised: 11-10-2008    Generic FAQ    back to top